What works on one bolt may not work on the next.

The carbide burr can also be used to "pull" an errant hole back to center. I know it sounds weak and crazy. It has full time hubs. So hopefully it will come out in one piece. I will start doing that today. Finding center can be a chore at times. I carefully measured the location of all four holes. I have done that several times and it works pretty good. I happened on welding on rusted studs when I backed a loaded Chevy truck into a shop and caught the exhaust pipe on the lip of the floor, broke all six studs off in the 350 V-8. Use the best HSS or cobalt drills you have, go slow, use lots of oil keep it steady and straight. Absolutely I agree with you when a bolt has been bottomed out or protrudes through into an area where it has been corroded. Start small and go larger until you can pick the bits out of the threads (or an extractor takes effect).

We had over 100 set screws on a machine reman we took out. I do know that a lot people will not have the drills and taps which makes it tuff if needed. Manifolds, heads, machinery, you name it. Turn the wire feed down. I've heard of welding a nut onto a stud. I tossed some a while back I should have taken pics of. each situation if different, and multiple solutions will work in each situation. I remember the first time I did it was a Ford 7700 tractor AC compressor mount. That was one location where it was going to be very difficult to drill out. Look for 135 split points. Someone had tightened a bolt to the bottom to where it would not turn out without tearing out the threads on the way out. It is a life saver if you have a broken bolt that someone else has tried to drill out by hand and the drill wandered into the cast iron. Usually if the damn thing was seized that good it'll take thread OK anyway. "dateModified": "2016-02-27", When the whole mess cools down, the space formerly occupied by the paper washer is now a clearance, and prevents the washer from binding on the surface. Then weld a washer then a nut on and good chance it will come right out Repeat the heating and allowing to cool to ambient temp several more times, then weld a flat washer to the remains of the bolt, using as much heat as you can. This will only work with a magnetic drill- it will only get you into more trouble with a hand drill. I then drilled the broken bolt holes with the proper tap size drill. I was just trying to explain in the only way I know how that every case can be different. The one you are most comfortable with usually works the best for you. I like the idea of drilling hole completely through even with a blind hole can making torching easier. I then found a long right hand 1/4 bit that inserted into my drill gave just enough clearance past timing cover to put bit at 90 degrees. I assume from it being heated without success that it is not lightly stuck. I thread the ready rod until it bottoms out softly. One time a stud broke off inside and I broke off easy-out. Another vote for welding a nut onto the broken bolt. So hopefully it will come out in one piece. However it does depend on how bad it is stuck. Best of luck with nasty situations. I tried welding a flat bar with a hole in it to one to see if I could tap it with a hammer. Stub length ( also known as screw machine drills) are shorter and more rigid, and usually are a better grade. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. }, I used to work for a spring and shank manufacturer, and removing broken bolts from dies was a daily experience. For some reason I've never had the desire to weld or use a torch in those cases. But I know now that no matter how badly I screw up my own attempts at broken bolt extraction there is someone who will undo the damage for $25. Repairing this kind of stuff for 50 years will prove that all bolt removal will not be the same. your best bet is to weld washer then nut if that doesn't work harbor freight has a left hand drill bits. It does not look pretty but hole is very usable and now I can attach my rad support side panel securely. Regular jobber length drills tend to be more flexible and need more overhead room to maneuver.

i only used nut's for years and welded down inside them. A handle welded on can be a godsend. your best bet is to weld washer then nut if that doesn't work harbor freight has a left hand drill bits. every time I used a left hand bit it was simple short work of complete lasting joy , that a few minutes before reversed a most perplexing problem.. A handle welded on can be a godsend. I drilled two clearance holes for the two good holes . (:^D No Kidding! Any suggestions? One time I had used my small round ended die grinder to clean-out hole and then tap and pick threads out. My two cents worth- use a stub length drill wherever possible. "@type": "Person", When drilling out bolts or studs, if you are able to use a magnetic drill, try using a two flute end mill ( slot drill ) or a centre cutting 4 flute end mill. I keep drilling it larger and if the easy out won't remove the shards then I just re-tap the hole to standard. This bolt would not break loose with a torch red hot. I drilled two clearance holes for the two good holes . Old has the idea. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. I've got a pretty good eye and can drill fairly perpendicular to a surface, but it is harder if you do not have a good reference surface to go by. But try not to break it! welding method is fastest, easiest way of anything tried. [URL=http://s65.photobucket.com/user/godtool/media/716FBB88-A276-40EC-8AB5-A6DBE2A54529.jpg.html] [/URL] [URL=http://s65.photobucket.com/user/godtool/media/3B03377F-A60E-44F9-AD69-F32810B78591.jpg.html] [/URL] Unfortunately the 5/32 bit went a wee bit out from 90 degrees yesterday. } "@type": "Organization", Sorry that would probly be to fast and easy. i only used nut's for years and welded down inside them. I find drilling right through to bottom and then heat and lube helps when using easy-out. The heat from welding will usually loosen them up. Torching off nuts I been successful at yet blowing out a broken bolt in a blind hole not as successful - bigger nuts\bolts is easier. You may need to grind some off your extractor to get the right fit, or grind your own extractor from some tool steel like a lathe bit blank. Why not drill it out to tap size and remove the threads with a tap? I have some atf drippings so will use that. It depends it if is broke from over tightening or from being stuck fast in the threads for one of several causes. I ended up blowing it out with a torch.l I found drilling you have to be dead center. I hope I didn't offend you, as well you didn't offend me by accusing me of guessing about something I had never done. Lots of good advice on this post. It has full time hubs. I bought a coulple left handed drill bits yet the one I used just drilled right through the bolt (which is good). I run a Dana 44 under the front of my 83 GMC 4x4 farm pick-up. Finding center can be a chore at times. You use a ruler to find center with a good center punch. The paper washer acts as a spacer. It is a life saver if you have a broken bolt that someone else has tried to drill out by hand and the drill wandered into the cast iron. The neighbour's dog's ears turned blue from the swearing it heard . I remember being afraid to try it. This particular 5/16 broken off bolt is in a spot where my my drill may not fit. After not having heat do the job I would have drilled it, removed what threads that were left and it would have been forgot. I thread the ready rod until it bottoms out softly. It may not display this or other websites correctly. This post has been really interesting , I get myself into all sorts of strife trying to remove broken bolts and really want to try the washer and weld trick . I get all kinds of broken off bolts, taps, drills broken into the widest variety of stuff. 3 How do you get the tap to cut only the bolt and not the cast threads? I make my own studs to hold full time hubs on with NC 3/8 ready rod. I was able to drill right through old bolt. I could have heated it up with my heater but figured save time by just drilling it out. It was a 5/8" grade eight allen bolt. Right on! Is this bolt located near any other bolts/holes? Plan your work and take your time and get on center first. I could never see the advantage. After not having heat do the job I would have drilled it, removed what threads that were left and it would have been forgot.

I drilled two matching tap holes in some 1 flat bar scrap to match the same holes in the 1/4 plate. I then had to drill it out and remove the threads with a tap. Dick L: Great pictures! I have two trucks now with Dana 60's so have to set them up for Snowplowing the farm. Know what you are drilling into and how deep you can go. You must have to be a whole lot smarter than me to get offended. I make my own studs to hold full time hubs on with NC 3/8 ready rod. Every time I try , the busted end throws the punch off line , I can't ever drill the exact middle and almost always make a pigs ear of a job out of it :( Last one I drilled ended up taking one side of the threads with it . This bolt would not break loose with a torch red hot. "logo": { I tried welding a flat bar with a hole in it to one to see if I could tap it with a hammer. Dripped some penetrating oil in there for tomorrow. Use magnification and a sharp scribe to make an x on the face of the bolt, then center punch. I have two trucks now with Dana 60's so have to set them up for Snowplowing the farm. Get your center right as early as you can. Is this bolt located near any other bolts/holes? Anyway, the guy took a die grinder and carefully cut away the extractor and bolt until there was so little left that he backed the remains out with a pick. The paper washer acts as a spacer. welding method is fastest, easiest way of anything tried. "interactionStatistic": { I ended up blowing it out with a torch.l I found drilling you have to be dead center. That gave me a drill guide to drill out the holes. I have removed broken bolts with a hammer and punch also. I usually try welding onto them first but if that fails and it generally does when they break off flush or below grade then I just center punch the bolt and drill it. A solid carbide drill will whip right threw your bolt but is very brittle and easily broken. I heated bolt up red hot and let it cooled down. Then (to make it easy) weld a larger hex nut to the washer and again allow to cool to ambient before wrenching on it. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V. window.dataLayer = window.dataLayer || []; function gtag(){dataLayer.push(arguments);} gtag('js', new Date()); gtag('config', 'G-04SJ2KTSCK',{ cookie_flags: 'max-age=7200;secure;samesite=none' }); Welcome! Dick L: Great pictures! Regular jobber length drills tend to be more flexible and need more overhead room to maneuver. removing rusted bolts tool cool rust vinegar salt fasteners Welding a washer to it,then a nut by welding around the outside of it,instead of trying to weld through the little hole in the center of the nut is the way to go. It's rare for there not to be any room under a bolt even in a blind hole, because of the cone made by the original drill tip. Weld the nut or washer but don't try to be neat , puddle the $hit out of it and get it hot as you can , use grade 8 nuts or washers , grab the puddle with vicegrips . This post has been really interesting , I get myself into all sorts of strife trying to remove broken bolts and really want to try the washer and weld trick . I thread the ready rod until it bottoms out softly. }, I typically drill a couple of steps under tap size until I break through the bottom of the bolt. 3 How do you get the tap to cut only the bolt and not the cast threads? Broken bolt was previously up an 1/8 or so yet vice grips wouldn't turn it so I figured welding a washer or nut on there may have been fruitless. Usually if the damn thing was seized that good it'll take thread OK anyway. Try it you'll be amazed. Regular jobber length drills tend to be more flexible and need more overhead room to maneuver.

My Case 530 is 1961 so that old broken bolt had possibly been rusting in there for 50 years or so. Too much wire speed and the weld does not penetrate the bolt enough to make a strong weld to it. A carbide burr in a pneumatic drill can dimple the face to prevent the drill bit from walking off center. Someone had tightened a bolt to the bottom to where it would not turn out without tearing out the threads on the way out. I had to drill out several broken bolts in the front bolster of a Farmall H. I made my own drill guide using some scrap flat bar and steel plate. Sometimes a stud will break inside the hub. Sometimes I need to pack the welder and remove the broken bolt still in the machine. Know what you are drilling into and how deep you can go. I bought a coulple left handed drill bits yet the one I used just drilled right through the bolt (which is good). Keep drill square and yes make a jig if possible.

I had to drill out several broken bolts in the front bolster of a Farmall H. I made my own drill guide using some scrap flat bar and steel plate. Tried an easy out yet did not want to break easy out. It was a 5/8 grade eight allen bolt. There was a group of four holes with two broken off. I've had trouble with old's method by cooking ATF in the threads, really seizing the bolt. 3 How do you get the tap to cut only the bolt and not the cast threads? However it does depend on how bad it is stuck. Old has the idea. On a 3/8 bolt I have drilled down the center and then used wire feed to fill the hole and welded a washer and nut on the top. Heat and penetrant oil are your friends. Repeat the heating and allowing to cool to ambient temp several more times, then weld a flat washer to the remains of the bolt, using as much heat as you can.

I think the machine shop is your best bet, alternatively if you know someone with a Bridgeport or knockoff mill, then that person could potentially do the job if they are experienced. "@type": "WebPage", If you last drill is the proper tap size drill it will lift the threads if care is taken getting it started. "width": 200, It depends it if is broke from over tightening or from being stuck fast in the threads for one of several causes. Sometimes that works. I agree every case is different. At the Hershey car show there is a guy who sells USA made bits and boy do they work nice! I never get offended. JavaScript is disabled. This bolt would not break loose with a torch red hot. "userInteractionCount": 27 When using the weld em up washer and nut method, place a heavy paper washer under the steel washer- stop laughing and listen. I have gone the weld a nut to it with candle wax into the threads while hot route. Rod At the Hershey car show there is a guy who sells USA made bits and boy do they work nice! Then (to make it easy) weld a larger hex nut to the washer and again allow to cool to ambient before wrenching on it. "@context":"https://schema.org", He sells left hand bits and I bought a complete set. I have two trucks now with Dana 60's so have to set them up for Snowplowing the farm. I've taken my share out drilling close to tap drill size (always like to stay a little under to protect the threads) and then picked the bolt out with chisels and needle nose pliers. My Case 530 is 1961 so that old broken bolt had possibly been rusting in there for 50 years or so. Sometimes that works. I drilled two matching tap holes in some 1 flat bar scrap to match the same holes in the 1/4 plate. That was one location where it was going to be very difficult to drill out. It does not look pretty but hole is very usable and now I can attach my rad support side panel securely. Thank you! I thought of fabricating an extension yet decided to try my angle method. Plan your work and take your time and get on center first. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Someone had tightened a bolt to the bottom to where it would not turn out without tearing out the threads on the way out. (:^D No Kidding! Use the best HSS or cobalt drills you have, go slow, use lots of oil keep it steady and straight. The weld causes the broken bolt to expand. Tried an easy out yet did not want to break easy out. I assume from it being heated without success that it is not lightly stuck.

[URL=http://s65.photobucket.com/user/godtool/media/716FBB88-A276-40EC-8AB5-A6DBE2A54529.jpg.html] [/URL] [URL=http://s65.photobucket.com/user/godtool/media/3B03377F-A60E-44F9-AD69-F32810B78591.jpg.html] [/URL] Unfortunately the 5/32 bit went a wee bit out from 90 degrees yesterday. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation.

He sells left hand bits and I bought a complete set. Unc I drill and use extractors on all mine. It depends it if is broke from over tightening or from being stuck fast in the threads for one of several causes. A handle welded on can be a godsend. I assume from it being heated without success that it is not lightly stuck. I purposely use the ready rod since it is a softer grade of steel material so I can drill and easy-out it. I have found for some odd reason if you heat something then pour ATf in it and heat it up again the ATF soaks in deep and that in turn makes it easy to get the part out after welding a washer and nut on, Heat it up then pour on some ATF let cool and heat again and more ATF. "author": { I could never see the advantage. Then weld a washer then a nut on and good chance it will come right out Heat it up then pour on some ATF let cool and heat again and more ATF. I would be really interested to hear different methods of finding and then punching that elusive centre . I've taken my share out drilling close to tap drill size (always like to stay a little under to protect the threads) and then picked the bolt out with chisels and needle nose pliers. Find center and drill a lot of times when your drilling the drill will turn out the stud. To make a statement like this would only mean you have never done it and you base your expertise on opinion not experience. This will only work with a magnetic drill- it will only get you into more trouble with a hand drill. Find center and drill a lot of times when your drilling the drill will turn out the stud. I tried welding a flat bar with a hole in it to one to see if I could tap it with a hammer. My two cents worth- use a stub length drill wherever possible. I will start doing that today.

If it snaps use a punch to shatter the remnants and pick it out with a scribe. I ended up blowing it out with a torch.l I found drilling you have to be dead center. I then had to drill it out and remove the threads with a tap. The heat from welding will usually loosen them up. it worked with stick welders best. A local car dealership deals in classic restorations and exotics, and their mechanics are always bringing me rare or one of a kind, unobtanium manifolds and heads that have some studs broke off in them. Yes they will back out a stud most of the times. This was done with 1/4 plate. One time a stud broke off inside and I broke off easy-out. Best of luck with nasty situations. He sells left hand bits and I bought a complete set. If it snaps use a punch to shatter the remnants and pick it out with a scribe. It's not magic cast won't blow. I had to drill out several broken bolts in the front bolster of a Farmall H. I made my own drill guide using some scrap flat bar and steel plate. Lots of good advice on this post. At the Hershey car show there is a guy who sells USA made bits and boy do they work nice! Broken bolt was previously up an 1/8 or so yet vice grips wouldn't turn it so I figured welding a washer or nut on there may have been fruitless. I usually try welding onto them first but if that fails and it generally does when they break off flush or below grade then I just center punch the bolt and drill it. I did not try the welding idea because my welder runs off a 220 diesel generator which was outside and it does not like to start in cold weather. The bolt in question in this thread for me would have started as it did. I keep drilling it larger and if the easy out won't remove the shards then I just re-tap the hole to standard. The heat from welding will usually loosen them up.

I keep drilling it larger and if the easy out won't remove the shards then I just re-tap the hole to standard. That was one location where it was going to be very difficult to drill out. I drill and use extractors on all mine. Welding a washer to it,then a nut by welding around the outside of it,instead of trying to weld through the little hole in the center of the nut is the way to go. 5/16 is getting a little small for me tho. Vicegrips wont turn it - they just slip off - about 1/16-3/32 sticking out of hole. "width": 200, i only used nut's for years and welded down inside them. 4 I can weld a nut or a washer and nut on the stud and have it out before you can get the pilot hole drilled I take it this was meant for me! last choice = torch wont cut cast iron = blow it out with torch last choice = torch wont cut cast iron = blow it out with torch Right on! I like the washer and nut idea. I typically drill a couple of steps under tap size until I break through the bottom of the bolt. If the bolt happened to snap off above the hole, you can sometimes cut flats on it with a 3 cut off wheel and turn it out with a wrench. But try not to break it! If it needs more twist power I weld a lock washer on first, it makes a stronger weld when using common filler wire. I was just trying to explain in the only way I know how that every case can be different. I have a machine shop nearby that specializes in removing broken bolts. 5/16 is getting a little small for me tho. TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. If it is bottomed really tight you might have a problem. 1 You have to be dead center, which can be hard on the side of a tractor You use a ruler to find center with a good center punch. Old has the idea. And it is incredibly easy and fast to weld a handle on a frozen bolt. "@id": "https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/" The bolt in question in this thread for me would have started as it did. I have drilled out bolts that had the crap welded out of them trying to do it that way when it failed. There was a group of four holes with two broken off. If that does not work I will hopefully be able to fit small drill in there and drill it and easy out it. The bolt in question in this thread for me would have started as it did. I do know that a lot people will not have the drills and taps which makes it tuff if needed. Some threads in the hub have been partially stripped by previous owners. }, every time I used a left hand bit it was simple short work of complete lasting joy , that a few minutes before reversed a most perplexing problem.. does he have a website where we can order a set ,,. "datePublished": "2016-02-27", Some threads in the hub have been partially stripped by previous owners. Sometimes though drilling is the only option and it here that I have real trouble . 6 studs per hub flange and three home made lock plates to bridge two neighboring studs and bend corners of lock plates against nuts. I spent the better part of last year pulling broken bolts and studs out of military aircraft. If you last drill is the proper tap size drill it will lift the threads if care is taken getting it started. your best bet is to weld washer then nut if that doesn't work harbor freight has a left hand drill bits. Sometimes that works. I spent the better part of last year pulling broken bolts and studs out of military aircraft. There was a group of four holes with two broken off. does he have a website where we can order a set ,,. "@type":"DiscussionForumPosting", Most of the broken bolts I deal with are gauge bolts on propane tanks. I did not try the welding idea because my welder runs off a 220 diesel generator which was outside and it does not like to start in cold weather. Sometimes a stud will break inside the hub. 1 You have to be dead center, which can be hard on the side of a tractor. "headline":"removing broken bolt in cast iron tractor frame>", I have no lefthand drill bits yet have to go to town tomorrow so see if I can get a few sizes. I used to work for a spring and shank manufacturer, and removing broken bolts from dies was a daily experience. 1 You have to be dead center, which can be hard on the side of a tractor You use a ruler to find center with a good center punch. last choice = torch wont cut cast iron = blow it out with torch. Carefully center punching the broke off piece and drilling can work, I like to use transfer punches for this. "@id":"https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=toolt&th=405007", You must have to be a whole lot smarter than me to get offended. I do know that a lot people will not have the drills and taps which makes it tuff if needed. Dripped some penetrating oil in there for tomorrow. I run a Dana 44 under the front of my 83 GMC 4x4 farm pick-up. "name": "Cariboo4x4" Then cut it off long enough to fit f\t hub flange, lock plate and regular nut. A carbide burr in a pneumatic drill can dimple the face to prevent the drill bit from walking off center. Once I get through the bolt I may try heating it and using a Proto easy out. I drilled two matching tap holes in some 1" flat bar scrap to match the same holes in the 1/4" plate. I make my own studs to hold full time hubs on with NC 3/8" ready rod. Just how do you get the exact centre of the broken bolt ? Once you break thru the bottom of the broken bolt it will collapse some and take the pressure off, and can probably be turned out with a new sharp easy out type extractor. We all have different experiences. Thank you! It's rare for there not to be any room under a bolt even in a blind hole, because of the cone made by the original drill tip. I've heard of welding a nut onto a stud. I happened on welding on rusted studs when I backed a loaded Chevy truck into a shop and caught the exhaust pipe on the lip of the floor, broke all six studs off in the 350 V-8. You may need to grind some off your extractor to get the right fit, or grind your own extractor from some tool steel like a lathe bit blank. Most of the broken bolts I deal with are gauge bolts on propane tanks. Sorry that would probly be to fast and easy. Then (to make it easy) weld a larger hex nut to the washer and again allow to cool to ambient before wrenching on it. Then weld a washer then a nut on and good chance it will come right out. And it is incredibly easy and fast to weld a handle on a frozen bolt. Removed 2 in similar situation couple weeks ago. For some reason I've never had the desire to weld or use a torch in those cases.

My two cents worth- use a stub length drill wherever possible. It's rare for there not to be any room under a bolt even in a blind hole, because of the cone made by the original drill tip. I carefully measured the location of all four holes. Even in my wheelchair chained fast to the mold I was able to drill it out and save the original threads.



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