Any squeeze-out can be quickly removed with a damp cloth. Finishing is 3 parts chemistry and 1 part VooDoo :shifty: The Fora platform includes forum software by XenForo, VerticalScope Inc., 111 Peter Street, Suite 600, Toronto, Ontario, M5V 2H1, Canada. And speaking of Titebond glues, you can pick up all of your glue supplies and accessories in our Amazon Store. Titebond 3 sounds like it will NOT give me the degree of waterproofing I need, but I was still hoping to be able to utilize some type of non-catalyzed one step glue(for both ease of use, and to minimize waste). I used to use it a lot, and it was a very good glue. I want to glue door back on. A woodworker should not skimp on tools/materials, but certainly can be seduced new products and materials that arent really necessary to the practice of woodworking. Which is it? This can be overcome by allowing the glue to soak into both surfaces for ~10 minutes before making the joint.
This is outdoor patio furniture. What glue would you recommend for building laminated wood canoe paddles? Great stuff or it was.
There are three basic versions of Titebond available on the market today, here is a brief explanation of the differences between each one to help you decide which is right for you: Titebond original wood glue is a standard PVA wood glue. I recently had someone give me crap for using TB III on a project when all I needed was Titebond Orginal. Most of our yellow and white glues, including Titebond Original and Titebond II, remain usable beyond two years. 
It can be removed with a heat gun. Not so with hide glue. I do this frequently to get contrasting colors in the laminate, though usually I stick with all hard or all softwoods. Titebond Original will come out no problem, even once its dry. And then I used TB II on a project where TB III would have been stronger. All of our woodworking projects are going to be slightly different and I can see why there is often some confusion over which Titebond glue to use. Iron may contaminate the glue and darken the glue line. So in addition to Titebond III I always keep a supply of CA on hand. Either way, for $3.50 more youre definitely buying a little peace of mind. Assembly Time:Assembly time refers to the time lapse between glue spreading and application of pressure. As I mentioned previously, my (and others) tests show the usually available epoxies, dont stick well to PVAs like TiteBond. Titebond Original can be cleaned up with water but it is not food safe. Setting time 10-30 minutes, depending on temperature and moisture of wood. Titebond 2 is water resistant and doesnt have the temperature problem, and with the fascia being oiled it will protect the glue joints even further from water ingress. I bought a very small bottle about a year ago for a very small outdoor repair. I need the water resistance and strength it offers (for cedar porch swing consyruction) and I cant find whereTitebond Extend is water resistant or as strong as TB III. If thickened, shake vigorously by firmly tapping bottle on a hard surface until product is restored to original form.. I wanted to add something about strength, and the details about why the wood around any good joint will probably fail before the glue lets go. All of the listed other brands, are half the price (or more) of the major epoxy formulators, with very similar physical attributes. Thanks Marc, Ill try the epoxy, but which type would you recomend? Versatile performance! If they survive, its a pass on the type 1 test. just after a bit of help myself. I sealed the bottom of the posts where it was going into the concrete. (1) squeeze all the air out of the tube before you put the cap on (I use a spring clamp to help do this) I was going to say the same thing. Not unique to Titebond, but a great feature nonetheless. There are many types of wood glues. The repair went well and is holding up. Very light wood in color and in weight (compared to other pieces i have) I live on my own, i dragged this piece (yes im a female not buff) but i got this piece into my house but 2 of the doors lterally broke off after i pulled the dolly hard andvgot caught on door frame. Yeah, people have already said it, but the last major difference is color. I have seen some folks on forums giving Titebond hell for their overuse of the term waterproof. Especially the use of TB111 in darker color wood projects as I am currently working on a project using some black walnut. For this application water resistant wood glue would give you secure adhesion without the concern of a glue failure. Titebond II and Titebond III:Titebond Premium and Ultimate glues can be washed up no problem while they are still wet, with a damp rag or sponge. Titebond starts to bond almost instantly, making it easier and faster to finish your project. But as a rule of thumb you should avoid gluing sealed wood if you can. I dont use all that much so cost is not big issue, This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. As to numbers, tension, compression, elongation and other modulus figures, well theyre application dependent, but typically show the relatively weak interface, though (again) if this is better then the PVA attributes in the specific application a moot point. None of these PVAs are gap filling. Man I never would have thought to bring the glue into the house, Im reminded now why I read TWW. Mineral spirits when wet, sand or scrape when dry. Sohow can I extend the working time of Titebond III? The parts are small, and could be soaked in water, if that is advisable. I recently found out what they mean about shorter shelf life for Gorilla glue. Titebond wood glues do not expand when drying. 1) better penetration into the wood strengthens the wood near the joint making wood failure less likely. Was it pre or post construction? Timber Grain is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program. I dont see how I will be able to put the adjacent piece into the dado. See my post on this. Not a dumb question at all Jason. Titebond 1, 2 & 3 wood glues all take around 6 hours to fully dry. I have extensively used Titebond Original I and Ultimate III for all kinds of projects, indoor / outdoor and large scale furniture. Also the Marinepoxy from Bateau.com is quite good as well. I was asking how to extend Titebond IIIs set time. The dried film in the joint will appear white than normal. JavaScript seems to be disabled in your browser.
what, in your opinion, would be the best glue to re-glue the staves? Care should be taken to ensure a tight fit between wood pieces with no saw marks and no burnishing of the surfaces to be glued. Im on the Tite Bond 3 train, doesnt hurt to cover all your bases. I havent had any issues bonding epoxy to PVA but I dont have the means to know exactly how strong the joint actually is. One thing I can also add Titebond III does NOT wash out of T-shirts B-). Im an idiot with glue-up and like more open time. But, how often do you construct something that will be heavily loaded at 150 degree ambient temperature? Secondly, supposedly it dries more brittle or shall I say less rubbery. My gut says it should be fine, but my gut isnt always right. Everyone has this question at one point or another. Generally, making paddles and oars, strength to weight ratios are the biggest concern. Functional cookies help to perform certain functionalities like sharing the content of the website on social media platforms, collect feedbacks, and other third-party features. I dont do outdoor projects. Elmers glue will work too. Wondering if theres any water resistant sealer or coating that I can put on the thing? Click here to view Titebond Original on Amazon.
(this was made more difficult by people transferring glue to intermediate bottles, such as those with fancy tips or pressure spouts, or whatever.) As Amazon Associates, we earn from qualifying purchases. -Captain Obvious. For the best experience on our site, be sure to turn on Javascript in your browser. Titebond 1, 2 & 3 wood glue does not dry clear. I am building an exterior door out of some real Honduras mahogany and American black cherry, 1-3/4 thick x 7 x 40, so fairly heavy. But it would be nice to have actual numbers to know exactly how much strength is being sacrificed and if its enough to worry about. Hardwoods, wouldnt be common in a paddle laminate, but if you can tolerate the weight increase, sure you can mix and match. I just recently built my first 2 dining room chairs and the backs are curved ladder backs. The only reason to use West System is some of their specialty resin/hardener formulations, such as low modulus of elongation, or infusion mixtures. The primary issues have been noted, with creep being a real problem with all the PVAs. Its been a while since I played with carpenters glue, so I cant say from specific experience. You know where to find me if youre interested. Hey there! must be removed to ensure good adhesion. I glue a lot of wood and fiberglass laminates for both interiors and marine applications. Take a look at the table below for a more complete list of what Titebond is good for. And by not using too much clamping pressure so that plenty of glue stays in the joint and it doesnt go dry. This means if your project were to fail, you can almost guarantee it wont be your joint that fails, but the wood. Supposedly the II and III are not good for instrument building. Be sure to review the specifications and application directions before use to zero in on the best wood glue for your project. Titebond II @ 150F Strength 1750 psi Wood failure rate 6%, Titebond III Strength 4000 psi Wood failure rate 57% Heres a fundamental question from Jason. I them coat the whole paddle with 3 coats of West System with 207 hardener followed by 3 to 6 coats of marine varnish (I am partial to Pettits Captains varnish). My tests have shown you get about 20% 30% of the peel strength on PVAs with epoxy. Some of these paddles will be used for running bigger whitewater, so they need to be strong and durable. Original is best for instruments because it has no creep factor, which 2 and 3 do. Your email address will not be published. How to remove Titebond depends on what state the glue is in, and which version of the glue is used. Both have similar physical attributes of the major industry players, but at half the price. Its completely ripped off and the hinges are in place. Here is a short video from the company themselves explaining the differences: Apart from the differences mentioned above, each version of Titebond has a common set of useful features, which help make Titebond one of the most popular wood glues on the market. I dont know their specific limitations, but I think any of these glues would have resulted in the same gloopy mess. If you are using light-colored wood, it is best to use Titebond Original and even Titebond 2 will work. The results did surprise me with none of the 3 of them drying clear. Where were you when I wrote this post?!?! You might have the best case scenario if you simply use a polished sharp flexible putty knife to remove any squeeze out prior to it hardening rather than have any of it soak in. It stays hard until actually melted. I can definitely say that I notice a darker glue line from TBIII. Whats a good guess (informed or otherwise) about whether Titebond III will inhibit graying/silvering?
In general I keep just one on hand too. The manufacturer recommends a clamp time of between 30 minutes to an hour for their Titebond Wood glue products. If you clamp them tight youll starve the joint.
III is also mentioned as better for laminations and veneer work when you dont need urea formaldehyde (sp? The glue is stronger but the wood fails less frequently? Can Titebond III be Painted?
But sealing isnt an all or non proposition. By this I mean highly loaded structures, frequently soaked or immersed joints and repairs should be considered before making the TiteBond decision. I use titebond original woodglue for paper mch. Titebond III @ 150F Strength 800 psi Wood failure rate 0% (zero). You might have to check with Titebond, but if the glue looks good and pours nicely, its probably still good. The problem with a previously-glued joint is theres probably still glue on the surfaces. Last month the bottle was still viable and I used it again, so it can be done. Anyone have any experience on whether this glue will work for such a project? These results are obviously affected by the conditions inside your workshop. Unless I am missing something, doesnt the lower wood failure rate for Titebond III would indicate a higher rate for glue failure (or perhaps glue-wood interface failure)? Yet. If looking for a quality, non-amine cure epoxy (non-blushing, less reactive to people), try Raka or one of the products at Progressive Polymers. I do a lot of small veneer projects, and have always used a cold set veneer glue (Better Bond). If you occasionally make outdoor projects and cutting boards, stock up on Titebond II instead. I now keep all adhesives inside, but is cold that detrimental to all glues? The minimum shelf life of Titebond III is stated as one year, when stored appropriately at room temperature. That improves the instruments sustain or the time that a strummed string will produce a tone. Lastly, have a look into birdsmouth construction techniques. But if you read these comments and you want to be extra safe (after all, its a kids swing set), I think TBIII is a better way to go. In practice, this means that they are safe to use for things like knife holders, cutting boards, wooden bowls, kitchen cabinets, bread boxes etc. Ive used all three of these PVAs over the years, but admittedly, much more often TiteBond II or most frequently III. TiteBond III is very water resistant, even passing the WBP type one test (again just barely).
This is a very old thread, but raised a question in my mind that I hoped you might still see and be willing to address. I have to say the dark glue line was a nasty surprise for me. Ive used quite a bit of it over the years, though in recent decades, not so much with the advent of epoxy formulations. But opting out of some of these cookies may affect your browsing experience. If youre creating a project for use with food, such as repairing or building a cutting board, a bowl or a knife holder, you can rest assured that should any food come in contact with your project, it will not pose any health risk to you. It has the same incredible bond strength as Titebond Original, the bond will be stronger than the wood itself so you can rely on it holding up. Strength-wise, there are some differences as well. Will fix it now. When in doubt, always test your wood glue on a scrap piece of timber first. This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. For edge & face gluing: 2-4 hours. It does not have to set completely but it needs to hold so that working on the next strip does not move it. Titebond II is not recommended for continuous submersion or for use below the waterline. Thanks for any direction, I recently had a large glue-up where I exceeded the open time of Titebond III (10 minutes). I have heard that spackle will pop out of the holes in time. Both combinations offer a good contrast, but similar modulus. the majority won out on the decision to purchase TB2. So as the wood becomes more and more sealed, the glue becomes less and less effective. Thanks for your time. Titebond Original is for interior use only, Titebond II is water-resistant, and Titebond III is waterproof (well, technically its MORE water-resistant). I would be interested to know if the Gorilla Wood Glue has similar strength. Didnt even realize there was a TBIII. It will wash out of clothes no problem with just warm soapy water (or in a washer). Ever since then, the company has continued to iterate and improve their offerings, adding a whole range of adhesive products to their lineup, including the big sisters of Titebond Wood Glue, Titebond II, and Titebond III. I needed a good food-safe Is Plywood Flat Anymore? I've glued up panels in the summer for 10 minutes and then sent them through the planer and then the panel bevel on a shaper. When this happens, stirring will bring the glue back to a normal thickness. Thanks again for all your helpful advice, and for being willing to take the time to help me out! That way, I dont have to think about it and I use is up (just a part time hobbiest) before it goes bad. Wood glue needs to be absorbed into the fibers in order for it to have the strongest bond. Would Titebond 11 extend help with this? glue for this? These cookies track visitors across websites and collect information to provide customized ads. Gorilla Glue does not rely on the pores to bond and makes a pretty strong joint as does epoxy. For bright finishes I laminater with 205 hardener unless it is really warm them use 206 hardener. Out of these, the cookies that are categorized as necessary are stored on your browser as they are essential for the working of basic functionalities of the website. Since I try to save money when I can I normally buy Titebond I and only when I am really worried about the glue line showing up in dark wood I use Titebond III. the titabond is easy to use,and since Im screwing everything together,the slow set up time isnt a factor,but I made a wrong cut and had to take a bracing board out a couple days later,and it actually pulled the wood fibers out. If I build an outdoor project I use Titebond III. I used with Walnut and it works really well (very hidden glue line). You can enjoy full peace of mind when using Titebond (or most other PVA Wood Glues) that the bond will hold. Dont use Titebond if its cold in your shop. If you pass that time it will create a dry layer on top. Click Here to view Titebond III Ultimate on Amazon. For hardwoods (oak, birch): 200-300 psi. And they deal with issue 4 as well. Titebond III 800 psi (yes thats an 80% loss from the room temp value) Next time bend your wood rather than stacking. Epoxy dries relatively clear, though you cant clamp the joint tight enough to close the glue lines or you starve the joint. Can be used on wood, hardboard, high-pressure laminates, particleboard, leather, supported vinyl, cloth, paper and many other porous materials. I have been a big fan of Titebond for over 10 years, in the past I had to import the bottles from the USA or England. Noticed the weirdest bluish staining starting to happen every once in a while wherever I had a glue drip that didnt get wiped in time, but was sanded down instead. I DO want the wood (yellow cedar) to silver uniformly. What is the best glue for rubber to metal? Well if you believe the labeling, yes I do believe the TBII would have been sufficient. Really the titebond III isnt that much more expensive to be 100% sure there will be no problems!! It hardened and was ruined. If you intend to use a darker timber like Walnut then Titebond 3 is best. I have used all three past two years. 10 Things You Need To Consider, link to Is Plywood Flat Anymore? Please advise can i use the original tite. I am a bit confused on which glue to use either Titebond 2 or 3 as the fascia board is being oiled prior to being put up to ensure all faces are protected from moisture and will be oiled once more after fitting. Advertisement cookies are used to provide visitors with relevant ads and marketing campaigns. On Titebonds Web site, it states, Titebond II Strength 3750 psi Wood failure rate 72% I typically use it when repairing vintage furniture or if there wont be a lot of stress on the joint/join. One I have heard folks use in the past is Resorcinol: http://www.dap.com/product_det..duct_id=43 I cant imagine there being a big difference that would effect cracking and splitting. I could tell that the joints where I applied the glue first were already pretty dry, pretty sticky, and the squeeze out was pretty minimal. Or is there a solvent that would work better? Not for any particular reason, just mostly because I can usually only afford one bottle at a time. Ive been told it wont hold in a gap of as small as .008, which is pretty small. Anyone else having experiences similar to Gabe? Personally I think 30 minutes is rushing it a bit. Should I be concerned? Thanks for the info Marc. We use cookies on our website to give you the most relevant experience by remembering your preferences and repeat visits. using tight bond |||. All versions of Titebond can be sanded, planed, or scraped off wood surfaces if its allowed to dry. The color variance is due to their water-resistant properties. Once clamped and before it begins to cure (5~10 min), use a straight edge across door face to confirm it is straight and flat. Straight from the label on the bottle on titebond III Not for continuous submersion or for use below the waterline. )nasty stuff. I find its cheaper and easier to just stick with titebond II and avoid storing my completed projects submerged in water. I STICK with TBII since it can be used indoors or out. Can any of these glues be used to fill in cracks in PT decking? Gabe, Ive been using TB III for perhaps two years of busy hobbyist work/play. But I still build with movement in mind just because you never know. This is a great discussion. Thank you for your comments regarding the different glues. Needed to find something with extended open time. Woah. Titebond Original and Titebond II lose about 50% of their strength at 150. You either need to remove that glue and then repeat the glueup or you need to switch to a different adhesive. Titebond Original: Titebond Original dries an opaque light yellow color. You can often bring them back to life by heating them in a microwave for a minute or so on the defrost setting. That years ago and now I see that they have bottles store themselves sitting upside down. This makes it uniquely well suited to applications where steam or boiling water may be encountered, the best example being cutting boards. I need some help. I don?t worry about glue strength because everything I have seen or read shows that the wood breaks before glue joint (with Titebond I). An example would be white spruce mixed with red cedar or oak mixed with mahogany. I should have been more careful in my wording in my post. This may be enough to exceed the PVAs grip on the substrate in some situations, particularly dense softwoods. I wonder if there is any difference between the three in the visibility of the glue line on light-colored woods. The cookie is set by GDPR cookie consent to record the user consent for the cookies in the category "Functional". All Rights Reserved. Titebond III offers twice the open time of Titebond II and Original. The last paddles I made were not birdsmouth, though they where hollow. Wood glue would not be a good option. Not sure how many years it had been air drying, but 400+ board feet of Black Walnut for $400 you dont pass up even if it has an occasional bullet in it. He asks: Hey Marc I have a really dumb question for you. I never knew the differences until now. Titebond II 1750 psi Interestingly enough, epoxy doesnt pass the type 1 WBP test that TiteBond III does, so from a mil spec view point, epoxy isnt waterproof. According to many banjo luthiers, they prefer TB I for primarily two reasons (them being cheap isnt one of them). im restoring a vintage set of mahogany bongos that some of the staves have come unglued or separated. We also participate in other affiliate programs which compensate us for referring traffic. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Performance". So at least for me, the deciding factor may just come down to the color of the glue line. However, Ive never heard of birdsmouth construction techniques, so I will definitely do a Google search and look into itthanks for letting me know about it because like you said, Im sure weight will be an issue with the paddles. A properly-fit joint with the appropriate amount of pressure will create an incredibly strong and reliable bond using any of the three glues. A little bummed to lose all that strength (and just have it screwed together), since it needs to last a long time outdoors. If you wait until its gummy enough to scrape it does leave a nasty dark spot to contend with, but if you try and wipe it off with water right away and the board isnt thick enough to resist swelling you risk warping the end grain before the glue dries. Im using Titebond 111. I think it would have to be very hot weather before I would take the clamps off in that timeframe. My worry is that based on what Ive read, Titebond 3 looses strength as the temperature rises and could cause my joints to open. In California I had half a lifetime to clean up drips, in Utah I have no such luxury. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Analytics". Epoxy or maybe even polyurethane glue would be a better choice. This glue is mostly used by instrument makers as well. :->. Its easier than you may think, lol. A smoother finish will create a stronger bond, so sand or plane your surface if possible beforehand. I started using III in December and now alot of my tables are cracking and splitting. What is your advice? It might be pine. Bought it because of the waterproof rating, but for outdoor use Titebond II would have been sufficient? Concerning glue creep, a boatbuilding friend of mine once glued teak gunwale strips on a 30 steamboat, bent around the hull using epoxy and no screws. This take a lot more elbow grease but it is well worth it and I saved tons of money in material and potential replacement costs! The glue line can be colored or left clear, its not necessary (nor desired) to have lots of clamping pressure, it doesnt need perfect joint fits and best of all, it is absolutely waterproof. I mostly work with darker woods so deeper color can be a plus, but of course Id never leave any glue residue, he, he, he. Titebond Original is not recommended for this type of product because it will degrade when exposed to moisture. (That hickory board Im planning to use for one of the paddle shafts sure is heavy!) I dont think so, but I dont know from first-hand experience. In SoCal we dont have humidity swings as in some locations. They have worked fine for many years last I checked. I prefer titebond II over original for one reason, finger cleanup. Havent noticed the dark glue lines but now I have something to watch for. construction is still based on >60years designs in 90% of the cases. Will Titebond (either of the types) give an adequate bond since there are unlikely to be any pores to bond to on the aluminum? What happens if the glued work is clamped beyond that time lime? I think Marc already touched on this when he said he didnt want to stock 3 types of glues, but as a hobbyist, if I stock 3 types, Ill have 3 bottles of 2/3 full expired glue. I repair a lot of furniture and Gorilla Glue, or any other polyurethane glue is not really glue at all, its a polyurethane foam that sticks to things well. We make splined picture frames, and sometimes I cheat the minimum working temperature up here in upstate ny.
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