An infusion of jojoba, watermelon, aloe, baobab and Kalahari melon extracts then helps to plump and smooth, revealing more supple, dewy and glowing skin. If you have spottedethylhexylglycerinon the ingredient list, most probably you will see there also the current IT-preservative,phenoxyethanol. Its the - sodium form - cousin of the famous NMF,hyaluronic acid(HA). But even if everything is right, its not enough on its own. Transparency lies at the heart of our philosophy which is why we have partnered with tech-platform Provenance to cut through the industry noise and equip you with key facts that matter. A type of lipid that's the major (about 75%) component of all cell membranes. It can be used in many types of formulations as it has great thermal stability (can be heated up to 85C) and works on a wide range of pH levels (ph 3-10). Its safe and gentle, but even more importantly, its not a feared-by-everyone-mostly-without-scientific-reason paraben. Your email address will not be published. With a twist cap lid for easy dispensing a gentle squeeze of the tube is all you will need as a little does go a long way! It contains the essential fatty acid, linoleic acid and has a unique structure. This helpsto prevent discoloration of the formula over time or rancidity of cosmetic oils. All international orders are handled by FedEx via a fully tracked service. It's one of the important lipids that can be found naturally in the outer layer of the skin. So, AP is one of the attempts by the cosmetics industry to solve the stability issues with vitamin C while preserving its benefits, but it seems to fall short on several things. Status Points, Item limited to a max quantity of  A complex of 5 barrier boosting Ceramides Hyaluronic Acid, fatty acids and lipids mimic the skins natural building blocks, helping to restore and rebuild the skin barrier function, whilst locking in and retaining moisture. Its safe and gentle, and can be used up to 1% worldwide. As for skincare, it works as an emollient and skin-identical ingredient. It was only an in-vitro study meaning that it was done on cellcultures and not on real people, but still, this also does not support the use of AP too much. Learn More. (source: manufacturer info). It's quite a multi-tasker: can be used to improve skin moisturization, as a solvent, to boost preservative efficacyor to influence the sensory properties of the end formula. It's uniquely excellent at helping the skin with its protective barrier and helping it to stay moisturized. Thanks. And ceramides are about 50% of those lipids (the other important ones are cholesterol with 25% and fatty acids with 15%). About1820% of the peeled fruits are seeds, and the seeds contain only about 3-5% oil. Overall, Ascorbyl Palmitate is our least favorite vitamin C derivative. With Winter firmly with us now in the UK and the winds having a bitter bite to them our skin needs that little bit more attention and care to tackle the elements. No matter the origin, in small amounts (up to 1%) its a nice, gentle preservative. A great moisturizer and anti-inflammatory ingredient that also helps wound healing and skin regeneration. Regarding the skin-brightening properties of pure vitaminC, this is another magic property AP does not have, or at least there is no data, not evenin-vitro,about it. As cosmetic chemist kindofstephenwrites on reddit "sodium hyaluronate disassociates into hyaluronic acid molecule and a sodium atom in solution". Its approved by Ecocert and also used in the food industry(E415).

A lightweight balm which absorbs quickly and instantly cools and soothes my skin relieving and calming any irritation. Please try again. It contains tannins and triterpenes that give the extract antioxidant, anti-irritant and astringent magic properties. So what the heck is a wax ester and why is that important anyway? The goopy stuff between our skin cells is called extracellular matrix that consists mainly of lipids. For that to happen, there has to be water in the product and the right pH value (pH 3-4). 0 To do that it has to break down to its active form, sorbic acid. The extract from the silver-white bark of the Birch tree that has antioxidant, anti-irritant and astringent magic properties. Our current one, Ceramide 1, or morerecently called CeramideEOP, was the first one that was identified in 1982 and it's a special snowflake. No matter how I choose to use the Ceramide Skin Rescue Moisture Barrier Balm my skin reaps the benefits, I personally love using it as an overnight mask knowing I will wake up with hydrated and dewy skin dont worry it wont leave any residue on your pillow. Well, the answer is probably a no, but they do work to some extent. Has to be combined with some other nice preservatives, like potassium sorbateto be broad spectrum enough. If skin barrier is compromised, make sure to remove retinols, acids or intense actives from your routine. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); Please go to the Instagram Feed settings page to create a feed. It has a water-lovinghead with two water-hatingtails and this structure gives the molecule emulsifying properties. A not so strong preservative that doesnt really work against bacteria, but more against mold and yeast. It can bind huge amounts of water and it's pretty much the current IT-moisturizer. It's one of those things that help your cosmetics not to go wrong too soon, aka a preservative. It's also loaded withfatty acids(mostly linoleic (50-74%) and oleic (14-35%)).

If the product is too runny, a little xanthan gum will make it more gel-like. The TL; DR version of HA is that it's a huge polymer (big molecule from repeated subunits) found in the skin that acts as a sponge helping the skin to hold onto water, being plump and elastic. My skin looks plumper and is glowing a winning combination! I call this my Winter Skin Remedy!

Apart from being an important skin-identical ingredient, it's also an emollient and stabilizer. It can be found in nature - in green tea - but the version used in cosmetics is synthetic. It does have some very nice properties indeed, though famous dermatologist Leslie Baumann warns us in her book that most of the evidence is anecdotal and the plant might be a bit overhyped.

Chemically, this is definitely not true, as the two forms are almost the same, both are polymers and the subunits can be repeated in both forms as much as you like.

It works over a wide pH range and is used between 0.5-1.2%. One of the gold standard ingredients for treating problem skin. The unrefined version(be sure to use that on your skin!) The tube is made of aluminium, so is also fully recyclable, simply remove the cap before doing so. Your email address will not be published. ALOE BARBADENSIS (ALOE VERA) LEAF JUICE, GLYCERIN, AQUA (WATER), PROPYLENE GLYCOL, AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE/VP COPOLYMER, CANOLA OIL, SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS (JOJOBA) SEED OIL, HYDROGENATED LECITHIN, Free UK Standard delivery on orders over 50*, International (Denmark, France, Germany, Greece, Ireland, Italy, Netherlands, Spain). It's also atexturizer and thickener for oil-in-water emulsions. If you wanna become a real HA-and-the-skin expert you can read way more about the topic at hyaluronic acid(including penetration-questions, differences between high and low molecular weight versions and a bunch of references to scientific literature). According to The National Sunflower Association, there is evidencethat both the plant and its oil were used by American Indians in the area of Arizona and New Mexico about 3000 BC. - The fatty acids attached to the glycerin vary and thus we have many kinds of oils, but they are alltriglycerides. On balance, the point is this: in contrast to real plant oils, wax esters were designed by Mother Nature to stay on the surface and forma protective, moisturizing barrier and jojoba oil being a wax ester is uniquely excellent at doing that. Our skin goes through a LOT. It's a very alkaline stuff that helps to set the pH of the cosmetic formula to be just right. Ceramides get quite a lot of hype recently and good news: there is a reason for that. It can be used to improve skin moisturization, as a solvent, to boost preservative efficacyor to influence the sensory properties of the end formula. That is probably no coincidence. It is also often used to create liposomes, small spheres surrounded by phospholipid bi-layer designed to carry some active ingredient and helpits absorption. No need to rinse. Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice, Glycerin, Aqua (Water), Propylene Glycol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Canola Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Opuntia Ficus-Indica (Prickly Pear) Seed Oil, Salicylic Acid, Adansonia Digitata (Baobab) Seed Oil, Citrullus Lanatus (Watermelon) Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Phospholipids, Xanthan Gum, Betula Alba (Birch) Bark Extract, Citric Acid, Behenic Acid, Ceramide Np, Cholesterol, Ceramide Ns, Ethylhexylglycerin, Ceramide Ap, Ceramide Eop, Ceramide Eos, Caprooyl Phytosphingosine, Caprooyl Sphingosine, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Benzyl Alcohol, Potassium Sorbate, Ceteareth-25, Glyceryl Caprylate, Glyceryl Undecylenate, Propanediol, Cetyl Alcohol, Potassium Hydroxide, Sodium Gluconate, Sorbic Acid, Phenoxyethanol. Shipping takes on average 3-7 days worldwide and tracking details can be accessed via your despatch email, or the Shop App.Please note, on arrival to your chosen country, your order may be subject to customs and taxes charges external to our control. Total Price: It gives products a good skin feel and does not make the formula tacky or sticky.

Let me know in the comments! Fatty Acids & Cholesterol-ceramides are most effective when combined with other skin-identical ingredients such as fatty acids, glycerine and cholesterol. Oh, and one more thing: alkaline pH inhibits enzymes that help ceramide synthesis in our skin. BTW, its also a food preservativeand even has an E number, E202. In spite of this, if you search for "hyaluronic acid vs sodium hyaluronate" you will find on multiple places that sodium hyaluronate is smaller and can penetrate the skin better. We don't have description for this ingredient yet. Please try again later! You know I love multiuse products and the Ceramide Rescue Moisture Barrier Balm ticks that box, use in place of your moisturiser, an intense mask treatment or an overnight mask obviously I have tried all three! Can be derived from coconut or palm kernel oil. It can also improve the skin barrier and hydrate the skin.

You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning its the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product. It can boost the effectiveness of phenoxyethanol (and other preservatives) and as an added bonus it feels nice on the skin too. ), but that the brand has still supplied substantiating evidence (which you can view yourself). It feels wonderfully luxurious to touch and has a lovely light scent which I enjoy. The typical use level of Xantha Gum is below 1%, it is usually in the 0.1-0.5% range. Usually dispatched within 24 hours. Most often it's used to create liposomes and to coat and stabilizeother ingredients. No matter the origin, in small amounts (up to 1%) its a nice, gentle preservative. A common glycol that improves the freeze-thaw stability of products. It also helps wound healing and skin regeneration in general. Even if you heat it to 370 C (698 F) for 96 hours, it does notbudge. Required fields are marked *. As far as skincare goes, sodium hyaluronate and hyaluronic acid are pretty much the same and the two names are used interchangeably. The neutralized form of gluconic acid. is drying. At first glance, it seems like your average emollient plant oil: it looks like an oil and it's nourishing and moisturizing to the skin but if we dig a bit deeper, it turns out that jojoba oil is really special and unique: technically - or rather chemically - it's not an oil but awax ester (and calling it an oil is kind of sloppy). Chemically, a wax ester is a fatty acid + a fatty alcohol, one long molecule. is especially high in linoleic acid that is great even for acne-prone skin. Sign up to our newsletters and receive the latest exclusive discount and deals, 5 Editors Share Their Summer Beauty Essentials, Clean Make Up? For more stressed-out skin, apply a thicker layer as an overnight mask. As you age, and as skin gets damaged through external aggressors, the quality and quantity of your own ceramides reduce. Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Opuntia Ficus-Indica (Prickly Pear) Seed Oil, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Read all the geeky details about Glycerin here >>, Read all the geeky details about Propylene Glycol here >>, Acne.org has this not fully proven theory, Read all the geeky details about Tocopherol here >>, Read all the geeky details about Salicylic Acid here >>, The BeautyBrains blog made a fantastic article about ceramides, take a look at more promising derivatives here, A natural moisturizer thats also in our skin, A super common, safe, effective and cheap molecule used for more than 50 years, Not only a simple moisturizer but knows much more: keeps the skin lipids between our skin cells in a healthy (liquid crystal) state, protects against irritation, helps to restore barrier, Effective from as low as 3% with even more benefits at higher concentrations up to 20-40% (around 10% is a good usability-effectiveness sweet spot), High-glycerin moisturizers are awesome for treating severely dry skin, It's a helper ingredient that improves the freeze-thaw stability of products, It's also a solvent, humectant and to some extent a penetration enhancer, It has a bad reputation among natural cosmetics advocates but cosmetic scientists and toxicology experts do not agree (read more in the geeky details section), Primary fat-soluble antioxidant in our skin, Significant photoprotection against UVB rays, Vit C + Vit E work in synergy and provide great photoprotection, Easy to formulate, stable and relatively inexpensive, It's one of the gold standard ingredients for treating problem skin, It can exfoliate skin both on the surface and in the pores, It's more effective for treating blackheads than acne, For acne combine it with antibacterial agents like benzoyl peroxide or azelaic acid. A so-calledfatty (the good, non-drying kind of)alcohol that does all kinds of things in a skincare product: it makes your skin feel smooth and nice (emollient), helps to thicken up products and also helps water and oil to blend (emulsifier). SimplySarahJayneLoves|Theme By Blog Pixie. It can exfoliate skin both on the surface and in the pores and it's a potent anti-inflammatory agent.

Firstly, it's stability is only similar to that of pure ascorbic acid (AA), which means it is not really stable. It's one of the important lipids that can be found naturally in the outer layer of the skin. Btw, Xanthan gum is all natural, a chain of sugar molecules (polysaccharide) produced from individual sugar molecules (glucose and sucrose) via fermentation. It can be naturally found in fruits and teas but can also be made synthetically. Get a FREE travel size Dusk Elixir Active Oil Blend with any 34 spend on Scientia. It can be naturally found in fruits and teas but can also be made synthetically. One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). Also,it's an effective deodorant and a medium spreadingemollient. Ceramides make up 50% of the goopy stuff that's between our skin cells and play a super important role in having a healthy skin barrier and keeping the skin hydrated. 28.00 available from Scientia and Cult Beauty*, Find out more about Scientia and see my review of the Peachy Clean Milky Oil Cleanser here.

Recycling information: aof the outer packaging is made with FSC card and printed with soy ink, to recycle place in your usual household recycling waste. A mild, natural preservative that usually comes to the formula together with its other mild preservative friends, such as Benzoic Acid and/orDehydroaceticAcid. A natural multi-functional ingredient that has emollient and moisturizing properties, can work as a co-emulsifier and has a strong antimicrobial activity. It can also be a pH regulator and a humectant (helps skin to cling onto water). A fatty (the good, non-drying kind of)alcohol that makes your skin feel smooth and nice (emollient), helps to thicken up products and also helps water and oil to blend (emulsifier). Used alone, it can make the formula sticky and it is a good team player so it is usually combined with other thickeners and so-calledrheology modifiers (helper ingredients that adjust the flow and thus the feel of the formula). A form of skincare superstar, vitamin C.Even though we are massive vitamin C fans, Ascorbyl Palmitate (AP) is our least favorite. A natural corn sugar derived glycol. There is also research showing that birch bark extract can improve the skin barrier, increase skin hydration and reduce trans-epidermal water loss. Along with ceramides 4 and 7, they also play a vital role in epidermal integrity and serve as the main storage areas for linoleic acid (a fatty acid that's alsovery important for barrier repair). We have written way more about ceramides at ceramide 1, so click here to know more. Citric acid comes from citrus fruits and is an AHA. Scientia marries science with nature to create supercharged, efficacious formulas that battle tired, dull and stressed-out complexions. If you have some pure jojoba oil at home, you should be fine using it for years. It's also used in oral care products where itreduces the bitterness of other ingredients. A typeof ceramidethat can be found naturally in the upper layer of the skin. Second, jojoba oil is the most similar to human sebum (both being wax esters), and the two are completely miscible. It's believed that ceramide 1 plays a "binding role" in the lipid layers of the extracellular matrix. Pure Vitamin E. Great antioxidant that gives significant photoprotection against UVB rays. Mother Nature brings Jojoba, Watermelon, Aloe, Baobab and Kalahari Melon to help plump and smooth, improving elasticity whilst rebuilding the skins protective layer. Hyaluronic Acidfor added hydration, with incredible moisture binding abilities and a tiny molecular structure, Hyaluronic Acid can help hold moisture up to 1000 times its own weight when applied to the skin. A kind of polymer (big molecule from repeated subunits) thathelps to create beautiful gel-like textures. For more stressed out skin, apply a thicker layer as an overnight mask. Designed to drench skin in a cooling veil of soothing hydration, the comforting balm is powered by a medley of nourishing, barrier-boosting ingredients. So far we were writing about ceramides in plural. Leading to damaged skin barrier, irritation and dryness. We wrote way more about ceramides at ceramide 1, so click here to know more.

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