For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Inside we have got the stator wrapped with enammled copper wire. That might be a fun project. Trying to hold the all of those heavy parts up with one arm, while installing nuts and bolts with the other hand is nearly impossible. This kit is well thought out and came with every thing, including great instructions. Since I don't have any keyway broaches I did some careful measuring and found that the keyway in the pulley would still be deep enough to accept the key after removing .085" from the bore so I bored it on the lathe. This kit uses cold rolled steel shafting, high quality cast-iron block mounted greasable ball bearings, and ships raw (the main plate is not painted). 580 RPM -> 145 RPM

The drill press can go forward or reverse. I have read, and IRL found, that a 3ph motor lacks torque at low rpm. Without, you just burn through drill bits unnecessarily. I used the kit materials and the instructions as a guideline and created what, for my purposes, is a great machine. Turned a ordinary drill press into an incredible machine. Not to mention that with the new setup we can control the speed of rotation accurately and without messing up with the belt and pullies as with the previous setup. wish everything was brushless these days, such great tech. I was only getting 2 or 3 holes per bit before this kit, now I'm getting around 20 holes per bit. That's a way better speed range for these drill presses. This gives you a place to drop on the large 8 speed reduction pulley. Now before we rip it a part, time to modify the motor. It's a generic kit, so it isnt going to fit on every press the same way. JavaScript is disabled. Here is the original speed chart for my Delta. Very satisfied. I was disappointed that regular drill presses often don't have direction switches. So we are going to use a 6mm thick metal plate with a dia of 125mm to act as the holder for the stator. I will more than likely be hooking it up into a 240 volt line anyway I'm just curious. The final shot (right): It has gobs of low end torque. Originally the motor is made for 10 cells which is nearly 42v and provided a decent speed so with the car ESC operating the motor at 6 cells (25.2v) the drilling speed will not be sufficient. Most of the treadmill motors that I have seen are rated at somewhere between 1.5 & 4HP. A good thing to remember if you're doing something like this is to be sure to get the zinc pulleys as they are very easy to bore out. I am off to hunt for an old drill press now.. All times are GMT-8. I'm very pleased with my 4:1 kit. Currently the drill is powered by a bulky induction motor, transmitting the power through a pair of pullies that allows to spin the chuck at various speed and torque. I wish I could have had you make duplicates of all your parts while you were at it.I have the exact same drill press.

Since the new motor has a 7/8" (.875") shaft and the old one was 20mm (.790') I planned on just using a single groove pulley on the motor. This will not only reduce the amount of work and the probablity of getting this drill ruined but if we can implement the whole idea sucessfully, the efficiency of this whole powerhouse is going to be preety good, so let hopr for the best. drill press operator layout The motor has a 4.5" raised flange centered around the 7/8" shaft and a 4 hole bolt hole pattern. Next the rotor holes were enlarged to 5mm and we tapped the threads inside the shaft adapter. Each battery is a three cell (11.1v) and thus we have to connect both of them in series. Really awesome product, just doesn't work very well with the harbor freight 13" drill press due to the way the belts are tensioned. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. My farm shop drill press has seen better days and either needs to be upgraded with a new motor and a variable speed drive or needs to be replaced all together. I can easily count the revolutions as they spin by, and theres a chance that it might even be a bit TOO slow at its slowest setting. like https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33041320042.html although those don't list any voltage rating so I don't know if they'd actually be compatible with your set up. check out the. First I would like to thank rogue fab for their amazing customer service. Welcome. The only thing that I'd say to be aware of is that this kit is not a 30 minute simple bolt-on job. 2 years ago. Share it with us! I would not have needed to make the mounting bracket if I bought this motor. I placed my order Friday for next day delivery, after the mailing cutoff via Internet. Excellent reduction kit for just about any drill press. Just for kicks, here's a brief summary of the drill press story. I made a new control panel and mounting box for the FWD/REV switch, ON/OFF switches, speed control potentiometer and a digital tach display. on Step 10. do you have a detailed description/instructions on rewiring the hover board motor for us electrical dumbies. You will still need to install an on off switch. Thankfully this time we got the rotor spining perfectly arroun the stator without touching it. Was a easy install and performs flawlessly. I didn't realize a 3 phase motor could be had for $40was that a rare deal? 310 RPM -> 78 RPM I will get another one soon. The kit included everything I needed and so far it's perfect. The frustration I was having at my old setting of 215 RPM was not only the excessive speed, but the fact that the cutter would drag and eventually stall-out halfway through the cut. We recently brought a drill press and as we have got a limited budget so that one was found from a scrapyard and later repainted. I really like to increase power as I increase down pressure, and also use a soft touch while tapping, as well as reversing instantly. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); This works great on my Harbor Freight 20" drill press. But you have all the pieces you'll need, it's just a matter of installing them in a manner that will work on your drill press. Question The end result is I have a standing drill press (with ceiling attachments so it won't fall over) that runs in the 300 rpm neighborhood (don't quote me on that, may be lower) that's got great torque. Even if they can only reliably deliver half of what is on the nameplate/sticker, it's probably more than the stock motor. Do you know what wattage the motor is? think about how much torque those things produce is such a small package. The nut on top of the pulley is left hand thread but is only made of plastic. Click on the Tech link below to find out if your drill press works with this kit. So we switched the ESC with a more powerful RC Car ESC ratted at 150A and 6 cells lipo. I did replace the motor on the drill press.from a half horsepower to 1 horsepower. I purchased a 4:1 speed reduction kit for my old Delta 17-900 drill press. Makes drilling and tapping a breeze. I should be able to use some 18V batteries to get make a battery powered drill press. 2 years ago, Most likely it would be that the starter capacitor has failed, because this is what gets the rotor spinning. Besides that this thing is damn heavy and obviously need a socket so the mobility of this tool arround the workspace is zero. Do you know what the hub motor's original specs were for voltage and amps? Only pictures is not enough for a good referenceThanks! I am a fan of industrial grade DC motors and varIable speed drives on drill presses. I did the same thing on one of my drill presses and I can assure you will not regret it. next the stator is mounted on the stator holder while making sure that its as centred as possible. Use lubricant/coolant when drilling metal. Previously the drillpress was unable to start spining as we turn the switch one, but this time all we need to do is to turn the know to a particular speed and the chuck starts to spin. The idea here is to rip off the older power house and replace with a much more powerful brushless hub motor from an old hoverboard. Compared to the previous setup which is corded induction motor so we are bound to stay close to the socket but with the current setup we can operate cordlessly and with aconsiderableweight loss we can now move the drill press arround our workspace as per our convinience of working. (In the next photo, the pulley stack is not installed yet) The tread motor will be quieter than your original also. I have a project of drilling around 300 1 1/16" holes into 1.5" schedule 80 316ss pipe. as we all know, REAL metalworking drill presses are a LOT more money than the woodworking ones (I think I paid maybe $300 for this one brand new). Well like all the crazy project ideas we got, there is always a problem waiting right in the middle of the project, so there are two of them. You are using an out of date browser. If you want to do it, I would't use anything less than Teco. If you need a puller I can lend you one. Its been a rough few weeks and I havent been making any efforts to get out into the garage to work on the truck project. Heres an example of how the setup will actually affect my spindle speeds using the slowest pulley combinations:

When my uncle came to see it, he said that the electronics had to be replaced. I'm pretty bored with isolation so I'm always looking for a project. OrangeTractorTalks brings together Kubota enthusiasts from around the world, into one place, purpose built just for them. First, I am not trying to optimize for cost or whatever here, but just having some fun with one of my home workshop's tools which gets periodic use. It's been trouble free, but as I do a lot of different projects requiring drilling steel, aluminum, plastic and wood, changing the speeds by moving the belts around gets to be a pain in the derriere. A little overkill on the size of the steel but it was laying around. I installed the tach pickup in the lower belt housing and glued the magnet to the spindle pulley. youve been warned! I've had my DPRK for about 3 years now. I was almost ready to order one from EMotors Direct but $280 for a TEFC (totally enclosed fan cooled) motor from them. "Rated" anyway. Very nice work! I machined the holes on the mill using the rotary table attachment on my 8" super spacer. On the other hand, it will give you the option of reverse to center bits and back out taps. Account Upgrades | Donate to Support the Forum! Speaking of which.. the kit really WORKS! Was a transition era design from the 100/150 design to the mid 70's design. You are using an out of date browser. I was going through 3/4 inch drill bits about once a month after drilling a couple of dozen holes. Next we hooked up hole saw with 36mm dia and later moved to a 40mm dia holesaw and the drill press seems to handle both of them without any problem. I'm now down to a cool 112rpm, and ready to start doing a bit of custom fabrication of my own. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. I bought a 10" X 10" X 6" case with a hinged cover to mount everything in. 2 years ago

There are better ones but that will work and be reliable. Thanks for posting and the documentation! They told me it wouldn't get to me until Tuesday and asked if that was ok or if I wanted a refund.

Don't think I'd have the heart to do that to my 50 year old Craftsman drill press though. It consists of a large offset pulley mounting plate, and a set of 4:1 ratio pulleys that will cut the speed of the motor down to a fraction of its previous setting (about 25% of original, Id say!). All in all, none of the issues listed above are rogue fabrications fault, they supplied a kit that does exactly as it says, and does it with a very easy and adaptable installation. I build lightsabers, and I have always hated being at the mercy of shapeways and other suppliers for the little parts that I need. With the RC Car ESC this hoverboard motor performed like an unstopabble beast. Even though I am modifying it (Drill Press Reduction Kit), what you sold me is exactly what I wanted, and is perfect. You must log in or register to reply here. I got everything mounted in the case, twice. Otherwise, most energy is spent on heating by friction, instead of cutting through the metal. I just didnt care about it at all. I tried it both ways, and ended up with the pillowblocks facing forward as shown. Excellent! The idea of being able to drop these speeds in a cost-effective way was very tempting. Heres the holes I am trying to drill, and the kit that I received: (Diet Coke not included) Now with the ESC connected to the motor and the batteries attached we are ready to test this thing out. I've cut over 100 holes without having to sharpen anything! i made a youtube review, might give you a little heads up to what this kit does. for example: a 12v starter is a DC permenant magnent motor. To power the brushless motor we are going to use an RC car speed controller rated for 150A and 6 cells(25.2v). You can also see that the sheetmetal pulley tray is interfering with the installation of the rear pulley and belt. So, the way a drill press works is when you turn it on, you then have to manually spin the Chuck in the direction you want it to spin. So we rewired the hub motor. Drilling holes from 5/8" to 1" in metal used to be a chore, with bits grabbing and getting chipped.

Besides that there are some improvments that we have planned to make such as the top enclosure, as the spinning rotor is close to the head during the drilling process, so we are waiting for our 3D printer for that to get done. After thinking about that for a while I decided I wanted the keep the multi groove pulley to allow for the maximum speed adjust-ability. JavaScript is disabled. Thanks guys! Each phase consists of three sets and each set consist of three poles. The one we initially decided to go with is a cheap Chinese one thats avliable to drive hoverboard motor. The outer casing is the hub containing all the magnets and its the rotor. I dont know how you would drill into stainless steel in production without it. It's up to the buyer to decide where to put each pulley, and at what height. I found that those foot switches work much better when tapping holes with the drill press because it gives you an extra free hand. Highly recommended if you have a wood cutting speed press and want to be able to cut metal too without having two machines. Looks very professional, maybe you have a new sideline. Some disassembly and fabrication of mounts and pulleys is definitely required. The quality of the whole thing is very nice for such an affordable product. would be a massive upgrade that takes under an hour MAX to install. I put it on a Jet 14" bench drill press that had a slow speed of 450rpm. I've had the DPRK for a couple of years now and I consider it one of the best add on purchases to any tool I have in my shop. The motor came off pretty easily and I put the plate on so that the added pulleys were to the left of the machine as you look at it. 1979 B7100DT Gear, Nissan Hanix N150-2 Excavator. It requires a fair amount of consideration and time spent figuring out how to apply the parts to your specific drill press. http://www.factorymation.com/FM50-2531skZ-Hch-IvD94pTyL3TNOKs7AbrioaAiz6EALw_wcB, https://sherline.com/product/33050-dc-motor-speed-control-units/, http://dealerselectric.com/FM50-101-C.asp, http://dealerselectric.com/L510-201-H1-N.asp. the problem with using a starter is that it isn't designed for continuous duty. I'm really thinking the variable speed of bench top machines would actually work better and easier with battery power. Next to good bits and a good chuck, the DPRK is about one of the best things you can do for a little drill press like this. I didn't understand why, but after a few days our drill press stopped working and I was very scared because I thought I had done something wrong. It was easy to install on my PC press. It's a tight fit and there's no room to really route the wires as neatly as I would like, but it works. Fabricating mounts and brackets and whatnot doesn't scare me or drive me away from doing something I just need to weigh the time investment versus buying something that already fits my needs. So to increase the speed of the motor what we are going to do is to connect all three sets in parallel andd we are going to do that with all three phase. Converting that to VFD is certainly possible, but it would cost way more than the dp is worth. It may not display this or other websites correctly. Now, bits cut like they are supposed to and holes are very clean. Delivery time was quick and kit was easy to install. I'd attach some pictures if I could, but I don't see a spot to do so. It will be nice when we can get out and patronize local businesses again. Works with nearly all drill presses. It works awesome. I am buying almost everything online these days so it came from Amazon. To make sure that this hole is exact in the centre we did made final cuts on the lathe machine as there is very limited clearance between the rotor and the stator. As to the point everything seems to go flawless so we made sure they look flawless too, time for the paint job and matt black it is. workshop power8 power tools portable saw drill workstation tool box table cel circular press scroll toolmonger battery jigsaw cordless separate lathe restored mill operation chinese milling



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